Home to a hermit long ago - St Govan’s Chapel, Pembrokeshire
Wales is famous for its many ancient religious sites but perhaps one of the most evocative is St Govan’s Chapel in Pembrokeshire. The site of a sixth century hermitage, the chapel nestles in the cliffs and may indeed mark the site of an original hermit’s cave.
St Govan's Chapel - a brief history
Arthurian romance is alive with stories of knights consulting hermits at remote chapels on lonely roads. However, although some have connected this place with Sir Gawain and the legends of King Arthur, St Govan’s Chapel near Bosherton, Pembrokeshire is thought to be named after Gobham, a sixth century Abbot of Dairinis, County Wexford, in Ireland.
Stories associated with the chapel suggest that Govan escaped pirates chasing him along the clifftops here and was able to hide in the rocks. Whether or not the cliff opened for him as suggested by the legends, it is certainly possible that in the days before the modern steps he was able to clamber down and find a place hidden amongst the boulders and free from harm.
Once the pirates had left, and in celebration of his survival, it is reported that he stayed here on this headland until his death in the 580s. It is unclear whether he lived his life as an ascetic here although the remote location, even today, suggests an environment of lonely spiritualism.
St Govan himself is said to have been a disciple of Saint Ailbe, an Irish bishop who preached mainly in southern Ireland; St Govan’s Feast Day is 26th March.
As it stands, the current building dates to the thirteenth or fourteenth century although it is possible that the small cave behind the altar marks Govan’s original hiding place and possible monastic cell. Bede’s Life of Cuthbert refers to Govan occupying a cell which was open to the sky; this is a feature of the natural cave today.
A haunting space - description of St Govan's Chapel
From the cliff top, the chapel is practically invisible until you are almost at the top of the fifty+ steps which lead down to it through the limestone. Of course, the original cave used by Govan himself would not have been visible at all.
Descending the steps, the chapel spans the cleft in the rocks, with a small door to the right; built of limestone, it blends into the cliffs.
Of simple construction, the entrance arch suggests a build date of the fourteenth century; above the gable end nearest this door is a simple bell-cote. There are no windows on the landward side.
Within, the chapel – still showing evidence of considerable plasterwork - comprises a simple one-room chamber approximately 18’ x 12’ although at the eastern end a doorway pierces the gable end to lead to the small cave thought to have been Govan’s own cell.
While the whole chapel has a unique atmosphere, that of the cell is intimate and haunting, transporting the visitor back some thirteen centuries to the devout loneliness of the saint and his rituals.
A small window also pierces the gable end above and to the right of this door. A stone built altar is also seen, occupying the small space between the doorway and the south wall. It is suggested by some that St Govan himself is buried beneath the altar although this is not proven.
To the right of the altar is what resembles a piscina, for washing the holy vessels; above this is a square cupboard (or aumbry) for their storage. Above both is a small window, presumably to light the altar.
A larger window in this wall a little to the west provides full light to the body of the chapel and also gives a good view to the inlet below and out to sea.
Beyond, another door in the south wall leads down steps towards the sea and also a small, very shallow holy well approximately 50’ from the chapel.
The well is contained within a simple roofed stone structure lying almost hidden amongst the boulders. It is thought that this was for collecting water used for healing purposes rather than drinking; the water is associated with the healing of ailments of the eye and limb.
The current slate roof of the chapel itself is relatively modern; it is unclear how it was originally roofed. St Govan’s was formerly a dependent chapel of the nearby church of St Michael and All Angels at nearby Bosherton.
St Michael and All Angels Church, Bosherton
When you visit St. Govan's Chapel, you are most likely to park your car at Bosherton; the car park is next to the church of St Michael and All Angels.
Although the church largely dates to the fourteenth century, with a fifteenth century tower, it was extensively restored in the nineteenth century and whitewashed internally. As a result, it possesses a certain sterility which seems to belie its age.
Notwithstanding, it contains two tombs of note, although both much eroded: both figures (one of a man and the other a woman) are in civilian dress, Unusually, that of the man only has his upper body sculpted.
It is difficult to date the figures. That of the lady, in a long flowing dress may date to the thirteenth century. The figure of the man shows him at prayer although close inspection suggests he may be clasping a heart. He wears voluminous sleeves and may represent a bishop or other holy figure. I am unconvinced that he represents a crusader, as suggested in various places.
The church font, possibly earlier than any other part of the church, is simply constructed although this too was restored in the nineteenth century.
Outside, an early preaching cross can be seen in the churchyard although its appearance suggests it is truncated. At the centre of the cross is a carved face, now much worn, which may represent Christ.
It is possible that the cross was deliberately damaged in the Reformation and reassembled from pieces at a later date. Certainly, the lowest limb of the cross and the upper part of the original shaft have disappeared long ago.
Important notes for visiting St Govan's Chapel
Once parked at Bosherton, visiting St Govan's is fairly straightforward although occasional military activity in the area may restrict access on certain occasions – just watch out for the red flags.
It is worth taking the circular walk which begins at Bosherton car park (a notice board gives more information) and takes in the famous lily ponds here before circling back along the cliffs via St Govan's.
If you do so, and you fancy some lunch at the end, be sure to check the closing time at the St Govan's Inn in the village to avoid disappointment!
Further information about the St Govan's Chapel and St Michael and all Angels Church
About the author, Michael Smith
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Selected images of St Govan's Chapel
The images below include more detailed photographs of St Govan's Chapel and St Michael and All Saints church at Bosherton
Entering the chapel from above The chapel seen from below Looking out towards the steps Towards St Govan's cell Windows, an aumbry and piscina Cell of Devotion - St Govan's own hermitage A window on another world Doorway to peace and tranquility Water from a well amongst the stones Sanctuary from pirates - the cliffs above St Govan's St Michael and All Angels at Bosherton The truncated preaching cross at Bosherton Early font at Bosherton Tomb to a lady at St Michael and All Angels Tomb to an unknown man at St Michael and All Angels
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